Ways to permanently fix the oil getting into the starter:

Updated:  9-23-03

A.    Next time you rebuild the engine you can do the following:

1.     Tig weld or lock tight a bolt / screw in the breather hole to the counter balancer shaft shut on the right side of the case.

2.     Drill and tap a 1/8 inch pipe thread for a barb fitting just above the dip stick for a new breather line.

Make sure not to tap it to deep so that the barb fitting doesn't thread in to deep and rub the counter balancer gear.   You can see on the case 1/2 in the background of this picture the hole has been tigged shut. Be sure to use Teflon tape or high temp. silicone on the threads of the barb fitting.

OR

Insert 90 degree 1/8" barb fitting into L side cover plate like below with a barb fitting. This can be done between rebuilds. Make sure to put it far enough forward to miss aftermarket clutches.

3.A   I now have a way to run the hose up to the roll bar where the seat belts bolt to the horizontal tube. At this point you will attach a rubber bladder to the hose and that will clamp onto the frame tube. See pic below.

It makes it into a sealed system. I now have this kit for sale on the 350 page.

3.B     The other thing you can do is after the engine is together and in the odyssey then run a 1/4 inch gas line up the back side of the roll bar frame. Then wrap it twice and drop it back down the frame. I put a plastic gas filter at the end of the new breather line to help keep dirt and sand out.

 At Engine Picture: 

4. Depending on where you locate the breather barb fitting you can end up with oil that comes out the end of the breather line, if you use the 3.B way. It is best to add a metal in line fuel filter about 6 to 8 inches up from the engine for oil to gather at and to keep the oil from going on up the breather line IF you are not going to use the sealed rubber bladder in breather kit. IF you are going to use the rubber bladder for a sealed system leave the fuel filter off.

OR

You can make it a sealed system by installing this kit piece that is a bladder at the end of the hose that will allow the oil to expand and not allowing it to overflow keeping the system sealed. You can leave the metal filter 6" up at the beginning out if you like.

Here is a picture:

B.     If you can't wait until you rebuild you can do the following:

1.      Do the first step the same using the screw and lock tight. 

2.      Remove the L side crank case cover plate that is located behind the clutch. Then remove the counter balancer gear and stuff a rag in around the end of the counter balancer. Also stuff a rag down into the dipstick hole and pack the cavity full with the rag in above the counter balancer shaft. Then while holding a vacuum cleaner where your drilling, drill a hole and tap for a 1/8th inch barb fitting.  Again make sure not to tap it to deep so that the barb fitting doesn't screw in to far and rub the counter balancer gear. Don't forget while doing all this make sure to be using the vacuum cleaner. Finish cleaning the drill shavings up, then remove all the rags and reinstall the L side crank case cover plate. Be sure to use Teflon tape or high temp. silicone on the threads of the barb fitting..

Next go to step 3.A or 3.B above.

This will allow you to run the oil to the top of the dip stick again.  Don't forget to add some ER or equivalent 

additive.

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